Mending then and now

Does your mending pile grow and grow? Do you throw a much loved garment away because it has become tired and worn out in places?

1000 year old heavily darned Egyptian tunic

People have been mending their clothes for at least 3,000 years, with the oldest surviving evidence being an Egyptian tunic from around 600-700 BC that features extensive darning and embroidery.

Darning and mending clothes were a necessity for most of history, especially for underprivileged communities, or in wartime, when clothing and materials became rationed. An adult entitlement amounted to all of 24 clothing coupons a year between 1945 and 1946.

To put this into perspective: a coat cost 13 coupons, a dress 11, stockings 6 and so on.

So, one new outfit per year would more than eat up an adult’s yearly clothing allowance.

Out of these facts, the government developed the “Make Do and Mend“ campaign. With limited access to new fabrics, mending and recycling of old clothing was commonplace, and a necessity. We have all heard of brides making wedding dresses out of parachutes and silk maps.

Today, we as a collective throw away 92 million tonnes of clothing worldwide. Over 60% of those are made from man made fibres like polyester, and not biodegradable or recycled. They end up in landfills, causing an enormous problem for the environment. It can take 400 years for an item of polyester (plastic) clothing to degrade, turning into microplastics along the way. Did you realise that we all eat the equivalent amount of one credit card every day?

Mending makes your clothes last longer and keeps your clothing more sustainable.

Thinking about “Mend and Make DO”, I remember vividly being taught by my grandmother how to use a darning mushroom and how to mend socks. While I shudder at the memory of the mountain of my grandad’s holy socks (I was only six years old at the time), I am forever grateful for the skills I learnt. I can knit my own socks out of lovely soft wool (no plastic involved), but I can also darn them, keeping my feet warmer for longer.

The process involved in mending:

1)      Assessing your mending

·         What to look for, what is needed

Reworking what has already been done:

Stitching on a button, restitching a seam, restitching a hem, etc

It’s all about how your garment was when you bought it.

2)      Deciding which mending technique is most suitable

3)      Grab your mending kit and give it a go

There are three main areas in mending.

a.      Darning:

Darning essentially means filling in holes and rips, holes in socks for example, by reweaving the fabric with needle and thread in an up and down running stitch motion, vertically first, then horizontally until the rip / small hole is covered. Best done with thicker thread, it’s a technique of old. I remember my grandmother teaching me.

It is mostly used for knitwear and socks. It can be used for woven fabrics and has recently seen a revival and become fashionable. Visible mending appears to have become a bit of a trend.

b.      Patching:

This technique is used when there is a larger hole or fabric otherwise missing. It is also a good way to strengthen worn areas, as for example on inner thigh areas on trousers, where the fabric has become thin. There are different ways of patching. Some choices include:

 matching fabric, contrast fabric, ready-made patches, and iron-on badges (novelty patches).

Patches can be sewn either on top of the area in need of patching, or behind. There are many different ways of patching an item of clothing. It boils down to personal preference.

c.      Visible Mending

This has seen a revival with growing consumer consciousness of a more sustainable lifestyle and sustainable clothing.

There are many ways to visibly mend garments.

Depending on the item, techniques such as applique, reverse applique, embroidery, Sashiko and just general decorative stitches.

The main thing about mending is :

1.      Assess what needs to be done.

2.      Is it reworking what is already there?

3.      Is it a hole? Does it need darning or patching?

4.      Do you want your mend to be discreet (Embroidery or a patch on an evening gown in contrast fabric is probably not a good idea)?

5.      What materials do you need? Do you have them available?

6.      Do you have a spare button, a new zip, needle and thread or a sewing machine?

7.      Are you physically able to undertake your mend? ( manual dexterity can be a factor for someone with Arthritis for example)

8.      Do you have the time and knowledge to mend your garment?

If your answer is yes to all of the above questions, great.

If you are lacking the physical ability, time or knowledge, ask a friend for help, or find a reputable business who can help you.

You could consider taking a course, learning different ways of mending, at the same time customising your garment

Or get involved in your community repair groups, such as Restore Carlisle at their Petteril Bank Shop, find out about the Carlisle repair café, or contact Gail at the Cumbria Clothing Collective who is currently setting up a directory of mending, alterations and repair services.

Above all, you’ll get to enjoy your most loved garments for longer, as well as doing the environment a great service.